I applied, through the British Consul, for permission to photograph
the first King's palace. This was at once conceded, and his majesty
was pleased to appoint a day on which I should take his own portrait
as well. The King requested me to visit his abode
on Monday, October 6, in the company
of the Krum-mun-alongkot, a nobleman holding the position of
chief astronomer, that is, the head of the astrologers attached
to the palace. His majesty's letter informed, among other things,
that his royal brother 'was well understanding of the work of
taking photographs, and being with Mr. Thomson will have good
opportunity to do according to his pleasure in and about this
palace'. Here was indeed a fine example of 'Siamese king's English'
(p.88-89)
In front of the entrance gates we found a guard of soldiers
drawn up, who presented arms to the Prince as he passed through.
Soon we reached an inner court, and there fell in with a group
of nobles, who crouched upon the pavement before our royal guide,
and seemed, many of them, as if vainly anxious to render their
portly figures invisible to a personage of such exalted rank.
After a pleasant refreshments of fruit, cake, and wine, we were
informed that his majesty was engaged in his morning devotions,
and that during his absence we could amuse ourselves by examining
the objects of interest in the audience hall.
This palace has been constructed partially in a foreign style.
A flight of broad marble steps conducts us within the audience
hall, and facing us, as we enter, is the throne of state, ablaze,
with gold and jewels, and erected in the centre of the back wall
of the apartment. The furniture in the room made up a miscellaneous
collection of Chinese, Siamese, and European wares; the pillars
were covered with polished brass to the height of four feet above
their bases. At one end of the hall were life-sized portraits
of Napoleon III and the Empress of the French, while a well-executed
picture of the late Siamese King adorned the opposite side of
the apartment.
A shrill blast of horns heralded the approach of the King,
and caused us hastily to descend into the court. His majesty
entered through a massive gateway, and I must confess that I
felt much impressed by his appearance, as I had never been in
the presence of an anointed sovereign before. He stood about
five feet eight inches, and his figure was erect and commanding;
but an expression of severe gravity was settled on his somewhat
haggard face. His dress was a robe of spotless white, which reached
down to his feet; his head was bare. I was admiring the simplicity
and purity of this attire, when his majesty beckoned to me to
approach him, and informed me that he wished to have his portrait
taken as he knelt in an attitude of prayer. I accordingly adjusted
my instrument, but not without feeling of some surprise, for
I had thou
ght,
incorrectly, as I afterwards discovered, that a Buddhist had
no need of prayer. All was prepared beneath a space in the court,
which had been canopied and carpeted for this special purpose;
when, just as I was about to take the photograph, his majesty
changed his mind, and without a word to anyone passed suddenly
out of sight. I thought this a strange proceeding, and fancied
I must have given him some offence; but it was possibly only
one of his practical jokes. I appealed to the Prince; but his
reply was simply that 'the King does everything which is right,
and if I were to accost him now he might conclude his morning's
work by cutting off my head.'
As that would have been a result distasteful to his royal
highness, we patiently waited, and at length the King reappeared,
dressed this time in a sort of French Field Marshal's uniform.
There was no cotton stuff visible about his person now, not even
stockings. The portrait was a great success, and his majesty
afterwards sat in court robes, requesting me to place him where
and how I pleased. I consulted the Prince, who said - 'Yes, place
him, but do not for the life of you lay hands on him, more especially
on his thrice sacred head.'
Here was a difficulty. How to pose an Oriental potentate who
has ideas of his own as to propriety in attitude, and that, too,
without touching a fold of his garments? I told the King, in
plain English, what I wanted to do, and he said, 'Mr Town-shun,
do what you require for the excellency of your photograph.' He
enquired my nationality. I told him I was born in Edinburgh.
'Ah! you are a Scotchman, and speak English I can understand;
there are Englishmen here who have not understanding of their
own language when I speak.'
This extract and others written by foreign visitors to Siam
over the past 500 years can be found in the fascinating "Descriptions
of Old Siam" compiled and introduced by Michael Smithies
and published by Oxford. Click here
to buy at amazon.com
